On the ninth day of our journey, we made our way north from Pocatello up Highway 15, then Highway 90, crossing the border between Idaho and Montana twice as we skirted around the southeast edge of Idaho. We meandered into Anaconda, MT to get some of my precious Taco Time for the third time so far along the trip (I developed an obsession with their crisp meat burritos when I lived in Oregon, and they only have these out west). We ate our lunch over the hood of the Subaru in a cemetery on a hillside that looked out over the entire town. Then we took a short walk to find the cache there before getting back on our way, heading towards Scenic Route 12 at the edge of Lolo National Forest, a route that would take us west towards Orofino.
I wasn’t anticipating how beautiful this road would end up being. Sometimes along our road trips, there are little unexpected jewels like this that end up being the places we love the most. If you ever get the chance to camp here, you should do it. We would in a heartbeat. We hardly saw any other cars out here, either. Also, we learned some things here about Lewis and Clark that have really stuck with me.
In August-September of 1805, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, along with the Corps of Discovery, had reached the Continental Divide south of the Bitterroot Valley. They were dismayed to see a mountain range in their path, rather than a clear path to the Pacific Ocean. They soon realized they would have to find a passage through the Bitterroot Mountains, hiring a Shoshone guide to lead them (“Old Toby”). They had acquired ponies from the Shoshone, and their current company included twenty-six hand-picked army troops, Clark’s slave York, interpreters Charbon-neau and Sacajawea and their infant son Baptiste, and two of Sacajawea’s fellow Shonshonis. They camped for a night at a place called Traveler’s Rest on the south side of Lolo Creek, taking some time to repair clothing and make moccasins before heading out for one of the most arduous parts of their journey. Although they were warned that the way was difficult, they didn’t realize how bad it was going to be, and it ended up being eleven days of physical hell before they emerged from the other side.
Their ascent into the mountains was so difficult that the horses even struggled to make it. Some of the horses slipped down the mountains, and as Clark reported in his journal, became “verry much hurt”. This saddened me as I read about it. Even though the party had been warned about the scarcity of game on the trail, they hadn’t quite believed it. They got so desperate for food that they ended up eating two of the horses. The paper that I read about it, obtained from one of the interpretative kiosks, mentioned that they had to eat the colts. I am not sure if in this usage, “colt” refers to the technical horse term of a “male horse under four years of age”, or if it is the colloquial usage of the word, referring to a foal (baby horse). In any case, I imagine that scenario was not pleasant to either the people, in terms of emotion or a practical loss of a usable living tool, or to the other horses, who probably watched and smelled their brethren being roasted.
They also ate some of their emergency rations, such as a portable soup they had packed, never expecting to use. When they emerged on the other side, they were suffering the effects of malnutrition, with weakened limbs, fatigue, body rashs, and diarrhea (I guess the colts didn’t set well).
They ended up coming back this same direction ten months later, making the crossing in reverse in terrible winter conditions, with snow six to eight feet deep. This time, they did actually enjoy a soak in the Lolo Hot Springs, a luxury that Clark did not want to engage in on the way out because the water seemed too hot to him. This time, the cold might have changed his mind, as he had written in his journal about leaving this area that he “experienced cold and hunger of which I shall ever remember.”
I thought quite a bit about Lewis and Clark starting around this part of our journey, and over the next week or two. I imagined what Lewis and Clark would think about our world now. This passage over the mountains that seemed so difficult over two hundred years ago was so simple now via automobile. Roads have been carved into the lands where they encountered wild game and hunting lands. Even though the cost of living and gas is high, our costs today are nothing compared to the sacrifices they made during that time period. We have it so easy.
With this ease of travel, we were quite comfortable in our climate-controlled vehicle, cruising along next to a gorgeous clear water river. I guess that is how this area got its name, the Clearwater National Forest. We were soaking it up. We stopped to walk down short trails leading to foot bridges. I was captivated by the trail registration forms that asked the user to describe how many and what type of pack animals they would be using along the trail, and signs describing changes to hunting and fishing regulations, the likes of which I had never really considered, with words like “bear traps” and differing minimum sizes for male and female fish. I would like to be the kind of person who takes pack animals up into these wilderness areas for lonesome adventures in the wild, but I am not sure I am that brave. There is definitely big game out there, some of those the kind that might eat you! I did also see some moose scat on some paths we stopped at along the way.
We were on this road for a few hours, and although we were soaking it up and enjoying it, we did get to a point where we were kind of over-saturated with the beauty. I think this phenomenon is fasctinating; the idea that there is only a certain amount of natural beauty we can take before we become bored with it and are ready to move on to something else. I first experienced this during our first road trip, at Yellowstone National Park. Anyways, we were glad to finally be getting off the road when we arrived in at the Konkolville Motel in Orofino. We were headed to this particular location for a specific agenda, which I will detail in the next post. If you are ever headed this direction, I highly recommend this little motel. We had a great time at this little inn, swimming in the pool and eating our grill-your-own steak dinner. It was less than a hundred bucks for the room and the dinner, plus free breakfast. We had such a nice time here that we ended up with a special bonus from our trip, one of those mementos that will last a lifetime. I will explain later 😉 Stay tuned!
Southern Idaho’s First Disappointment
Okay, so back with the continued adventures of a road trip out west. In our story, it is now July 15, and our intrepid explorers have left the Salt Lake City area, sans kids (they were now with their dad for a few weeks) and half a day behind. The plan, my friends, was to reach Pocatello, Idaho by lunch time. We were supposed to have plenty of time to stop by a wilderness area southwest of the city, make a quick find on this grandfather cache, maybe spend a couple of hours exploring Craters of the Moon National Monument, have Taco Time for lunch (again), then drive towards Missoula and find a place to camp for the night. Well, I didn’t regret spending so much time at the Potters Pond area, but there is always a trade off.
In this case, the time we spent dawdling around in Utah’s National Forests meant time we didn’t have when we finally got to Pocatello. So, we never actually made it to these places here. We didn’t take these pictures. These pictures are taken by people who actually FOUND Southern Idaho’s First cache. Not like us. 
This was our experience; we pulled up at Pocatello, finally, around seven at night. The cache description, as it is on many of these very old geocaches, does not really describe what kind of experience the hider is going to have, or give any particularly helpful directions. This is the entirety of the cache description (for those who didn’t click on the above link):
My GPS reported 13.2ft accuracy after 10 minutes of averaging.
Southern Idaho’s FIRST! This is an easy stash with an awesome view of Pocatello, Idaho and it’s surrounding mountains. There are several roads leading to the stash, I drove to within 100ft in my Jeep. Any decent 4×4 could almost drive right to it. Have fun.
So, given that, I was under the impression that this was like a park and grab. After all, we have a pretty decent all terrain vehicle. There were a couple of things I didn’t account for, though, that did not work in our favor: the cache was actually located within the boundary of a park, which had a gate with a sign on it that said the gates are locked at “dusk”. What time is that, exactly? We had about half an hour, maybe an hour tops until the sun went down, and although we had all our camping supplies with us, we didn’t particularly want to spend the night locked in the park. Also, the “roads” weren’t entirely clear, particularly which one of the rocky, rugged trail-type “roads” the CO meant that took you straight up to the cache. We tried a couple of approaches.
The last approach MIGHT have been the right one, but it was quite a ride just to get about halfway up, and then suddenly the rough road looked like it went straight up, too steep for me. Jason and I had a bit of a disagreement over whether or not to go further, because he felt certain he could drive the Subaru UP there, but I was too scared to make that drive. I finally just got out of the car. If he was going to try that, I was NOT going to go with him…I would walk, instead (there are times he is more risky than I am…like when it comes to off-roading etc). But it was still like a mile to the cache, if I am remembering right. There was no way we had time to walk up there and back in time to get out of the gates before dusk.
So we had to surrender the attempt. It was so disappointing. Now it was almost dark, and with a sigh of defeat, we chose to camp at the closest camping area in town: the neighborhood KOA. I also found this campsite to be disappointing and depressing. It had little redeeming beauty; just gravel roads, loud RVs, and scanty grassy areas to set up tents in the middle of the suburban landscape. I made a pasta dinner over our camp stove while Jason set up camp. I thought that in the morning, we would have gotten some insight on the road in and feel inspired to try again, but when the sun came up, Jason didn’t feel like it, and it was probably just as well, because we needed to make up some time. The one redemption of this stop was that we saw both the sunset and the sunrise at this camp, and in the morning as I was cooking breakfast, I noticed that in the tree right above us, a mother robin was bringing her three little chicks breakfast. I saw their yawning little beaks reaching for her, too cute.
We packed up and headed out before the office was even open that morning, headed northwest towards Missoula, Lolo Creek, the Sawtooths, and Orofino, Idaho – day of vacation highlights. This is where we will pick up again when I next have time to put it all down.
GC3B: Potters Pond
There’s a little place in Utah that we’ve been talking about for a while. To tell the truth, it is a little bit of a sore spot for us, but it’s a beautiful sore spot. Even though we’ve had some heated discussion about what went down at Potter’s Pond back in 2010, what happened actually represents the good in us, the complementary nature of our relationship. As in, I am the risk taker, and he is the cautious one. I push him to explore areas past his comfort zone, and he reins me in when I am going too far with it.
We still haven’t established who was in the right back in 2010, in my opinion. All I know is, he strongly insisted we not pursue finding the grandfather cache hidden there, in light of certain danger. This is what the area looked like when we got to it that June, over four years ago now:
The cache seemed to be at the top of that peak, and there was a snow “storm” coming in. Also, from the angle we approached it, it appeared that the only way to get there was to cross a creek, which was raging with cold water this time of year. I am still pretty certain I could have walked over this fallen log and made it across the creek, then up and back down this “mountain” before the snow came in, but Jason didn’t think we should take any chances. There had to be an easier way, I thought, but this was kind of before we were caching with smart phones, and I hadn’t really looked all the way through the previous logs to see if that was true or not. We tried walking parallel to the creek, but we never did find a place where it seemed like you could cross.
Anyways, fast forward to this past July, just about two months ago. We were back, and I was on a mission. My, what a difference a month makes around here, as well! This time, we could not have picked a prettier day to make the hour or two drive out of Salt Lake City, to the mountain area southwest of Price. I was ecstatic about the weather, the beautiful wildflowers, the prospect of finally finding this cache. I had done some research this time, and knew there was an easier way across the creek, where all we had to do is get the tips of our shoes wet in the crossing.
After this, the going was fairly easy for a little bit, but then the trail got a little more dodgy. It really was a horse trail, like they mention in the logs, and there were fallen logs about. I still can’t believe I tripped over one of them, falling flat on my face right when some boy scouts were coming down the trail ahead of me. Duh! As I dusted myself off, they asked if we were geocachers. I wonder, how did my clumsiness identify us as such? They told us the cache was just a little ahead, as were some others, even though they had not logged it themselves. They also warned us about the mosquitos, and we should have heeded their warning a little more seriously, as in put on some bug spray. We got swarmed so bad that it really took the joy out of actually making the find. We were in a darn hurry to just sign that log and get out of dodge at that point!
Now this is where the story leads us to our latest bone of contention. Jason insisted since we were up here, that we should find the geocache called Mountain Ninja that was also nearby. Well, Mountain Ninja is named that because you have to have a certain amount of agility to make the find and get back out. It is hidden in an area covered with downed trees. Now, back in 2010, I would have been loving this, but since I had that terrible leg injury with its long series of complications, including a very recent stint involving more physical therapy in which we were JUST working back up to my being able to balance on one leg, I was not a very happy camper about this situation. I grumbled, a LOT, to the point that it was making Jason nuts, and now he tells everyone we know that he finally took me up that darn mountain, and I could not get off of it fast enough. It was just this particularly challenging terrain I was unhappy about, though. That, and we kind of lost the trail on our way back down, so it was a bit of a bushwack downhill. I was so happy to finally find that darn little creek again.
The flowers and birds were incredible, though, and on our way out, we saw a shape running through the fields. I got a close up look with the binoculars at a badger turning his face towards my view for a second before scurrying faster. The drive in and out is a series of dirt roads that eventually lead to bigger roads that eventually lead back to the highway. We came in and out of the area through Fairview, where we stopped for a burger afterwards at a dive/gas station area that advertised the best burgers, and pretty much they were. We had an interesting talk with some retired older man and a couple of cowboys, one of whom turned out to be from the Tomball area, which was crazy.
And I don’t know who is more glad to get that stinking cache off our list: me, who wanted it so bad, or Jason, who was so tired of hearing about it.
Bryce Canyon National Park: Submission or Serendipity?
By the time we got to Bryce Canyon that Sunday night in July, I was really darn sick. We were also extremely hungry. We had driven pretty hard to try to make it to our place to sleep for the night, and hadn’t time to stop for food. We had driven past a Subway in some little town which my son pointed out longingly, but we assured him we would be able to eat once we arrived at Bryce.
We had food in the cooler, but it all involved cooking on the camp stove, which was more time consuming than just buying food. I thought when we checked in at the Ruby’s Inn Campground, where we had a tipi reserved for the night, we could just cook on the picnic table in front. It just kept getting later, though, so late that the campground office was closed for the night. I could see people inside, and knocked at the door. The two female clerks shook their heads in annoyance as they counted the day’s income, but the manager did come out to give me the slip for which tipi to go to and how to check in the morning.
Now there was the issue of food. I was probably too sick to prepare our food over the camp stove, we decided. We drove back up the road a few miles, where we had seen a restaurant with people inside it, but as I walked to the door, they told me they were closed. Never mind the people inside playing pool…but I am guessing at this time of night, the place turned into a bar instead of a restaurant. The Subway over here had just closed down as well. The restaurant attached to Ruby’s Inn…also with people inside…also turned us away. Ridiculous.
We went inside the store at Ruby’s Inn, but hordes of people were coming out at the same time, saying the store was closing as well. However, one mentioned to us that if you were quick about it, you might be able to grab something and get in line before the registers shut down. We were literally the last people paying that night, buying packaged sandwiches and chips that we ate sitting around the picnic table by the tipi that now Jason decided we should not stay in. He was concerned about how sick I was, and about the tipi having an open roof and a door that had stayed pinned open, letting who knows what in. He was on the phone instead calling hotels seeing if there were any rooms left instead. There was no luck with any of the hotels close by, but he did find a lady who offered her last room at her hotel at a decent rate back behind us about nine miles back down the road.
So here we were, at the America’s Best Value Inn in Tropic instead of having the tipi adventure I had planned for us. However, the beds were pretty darn comfortable and apparently we all needed to recharge our electronics AND ourselves. Jason also kept insisting that this worked out for the best, because there was a laundromat attached to the hotel and we had needed to wash all our clothes. I kept trying to tell him Ruby’s Inn also had a laundromat, BUT we did get vouchers for a free breakfast at Clark’s next door, so there was that.
In the end, though, I think we spent a little bit too long eating, washing clothes, and packing back up, because we ended up being just like ten minutes too late for the earliest time to rent ATVs to take a ride into Bryce. The next time slot was full, but they were able to take us at one pm.
This was a hard choice, because the kids really wanted to do the ATV ride, but I knew if we chose to take the slot, we would end up sacrificing the hike in Zion that I had been looking forward to so much. We even had spent the money ahead of time to buy the equipment that we needed to do the Narrows hike in Zion, but when I put it to a vote, everyone else in our family was willing to sacrifice the Narrows to ride ATVs. I guess I could have thrown a fit about it or insisted that we follow my agenda, because I was the one who planned the vacation AROUND this hike and wanted to do it so bad, but I was really too sick to even think about going against the flow. Plus, I was thinking about a discussion Jason and I had about that hike, in which he had questioned my actual ability to do that hike, considering that it is supposed to be hard on the ankles and mine wasn’t quite 100% still. I still had the want-to, but I might not have had the able-to to go along with this idea.
So I let go, but we still had a little time to kill until the ride started, so we drove into the park and stopped at a few overlooks. This is the part where later I realized just how sick I was, because I didn’t even think about geocaching. If I had just thought about it, I would have realized that there were some very easy virtuals we could have gotten, but they were all at the different overlooks than the ones we stopped at. Kaleb expressed an interest in hiking down among the hoodoos, which I was surprised to hear coming from him, but we didn’t have time for any such thing this visit. Maybe next time. Here is the view from the overlooks:
Then it was time to go for our ride. We bought some bandanas to cover our faces to keep from eating so much dust. However, because we were on the four seater ATV, we had to ride in the very back of the line, so there was a lot of dust being kicked up ahead of us. One thing I am never doing again, ever – going on an ATV ride in the desert when I had a chest cold. Despite the bandana, my lungs felt like they were full of chalk after this.
Everyone did had a good time, though, and we saw some parts of the park and Dixie National Forest that we would not have seen otherwise. We saw some deer. We had to “rescue” the guide’s dog, who had jumped off his cart after something and then was trying to run to catch up when we got him on ours. After this, though, we had a scary moment where the ATV shut down on us, with the rest of the pack too far ahead to notice we were not moving, and we got left out there in the middle of the wilderness. I was beginning to think we would have to walk back to the headquarters, which I was not looking forward to in the heat of the day feeling like I did. Eventually, the guide figured out to come back for us, and we got the machine going again and made it back okay.
We were all so covered in dust afterwards, and I guess the vehicle repair shop next door is used to this; they allow the guests to come over and blow themselves off in their air hose. Even so, we were still dusty for the rest of the day.
So, after this, we stopped at the Subway just outside the park, and paid ridiculous prices (it was something close to $50 for the four of us to eat!) and had terrible service by two poor foreign girls who had no idea how to make the food on the menu. I am not usually one to complain, but it was bad.
After this, we tried to make it to Zion. I still had a hope that we might be able to make it to the park in time to at least try to do a small amount of the hike I wanted to do, at least get into the Virgin River and get some of this dirt off of us, or see the park from the shuttle bus…something. We were following the GPS directions from our vehicle’s map, and it seemed like we might barely have enough time…until we got to the point where our GPS told us we had arrived…and we had not. We couldn’t figure out what happened at first, but then we understood. We were technically in Zion National Park, but it was a northwest portion of the park called Kolob Canyons. The name “Kolob” came from Mormon scriptures, meaning “the heavenly place nearest the residence of God”. We decided since we were here to go ahead and drive through. It seemed we did not have time to make it the forty miles further south to the actual park, especially since we were supposed to meeting the kids’ dad near Salt Lake City, and it seemed from his messages he was already or almost there. We had to go. We didn’t even really have the time or inclination to hike around some of the trails, go see some of the natural arches or find the earthcache there. We had just enough time to drive around the rim and take these photos.
Maybe it was one of those things that worked out for the best: getting a good night sleep in a hotel room instead of the tipi (which probably helped me get better sooner), or having the ATV ride be one of the kids best memories of our vacation. Maybe the Narrows hike would have just been frustrating or disappointing in some way. Or maybe I am just trying to convince myself of this to be able to let go of the regret of giving up something that I wanted.
The real comfort, I guess, should be that most of my family (excluding Kaleb, who still would rather go to Wyoming) got excited about Utah and want to go back again. AJ loved all of it and is willing to give up another intended vacation destination to come back here instead. Jason got this idea about renting a boat to explore the Lake Powell/Glen Canyon area and he still has not seen the Grand Canyon, so doing the “Grand Circle” might be a trip in our future, and at that time, I can plan to do The Narrows Hike again.
